Inflammatory skin phenomena are some of the skin’s natural defence mechanisms against aggression of all
kinds (chemical, mechanical, UV, hypersensitivity, etc.). Inflammation is caused by exchanges between the
blood and tissue and involves the immune system.
It acts immediately and causes the production of inflammatory mediators (including cytokins and the PAF or
Platelet-Activating Factor) through an inflammatory cascade. This phenomenon is regulated, allowing the
physiological balance of the network of cytokins to be restored once the action is accomplished (the
elimination of the foreign particle, for example).
However, if this inflammatory system is over-stimulated, an imbalance is caused, the inflammatory phenomena
are amplified uncontrollably and begin to snowball. The skin becomes a breeding ground for various
unpleasant sensations and redness and is no longer able to correctly regenerate itself.
Among these mediators, cytokins IL1, IL6 and TNFα play an important role in each stage of the inflammatory
response.
The PAF, another inflammation mediator, is secreted by the different cells and nerve endings activated by the
inflammation. It pre-activates the cells by bonding with the cellular receptors to make them more sensitive to
the action of other mediators. It has an important role in amplifying the inflammatory reaction.
Dermo-aesthetic procedures can cause inflammations and in order for the skin to be in excellent condition,
it is important to use cosmetic products that comfort and soften it.
Redness, swelling, bruising
The origin of redness is most often the vasodilation of skin micro-vessels, linked to inflammation or micro-
trauma caused by the aesthetic procedure itself.
Because of the presence of smooth muscles in their walls, the capillaries in the dermis of the skin can dilate
under the influence of different factors, causing redness to appear.
This skin redness can be more or less pronounced and last for more or less time, and are the consequence of
numerous factors such as:
- impact: some areas, particularly of the face, are more at risk than others as there are simply more
micro-vessels, meaning that the risk of redness appearing is therefore greater, - stress,
- irritation (as can also be caused by some dermo-aesthetic procedures).
Poor blood circulation can also be the cause of such symptoms: with a struggling circulation and altered vein
walls, the blood stagnates and is diffused through micro-capillaries, causing a visible effect on the surface
which can go as far as causing a bruise to form, leading to a swelling of the skin.
Microcirculation is optimal when the skin’s network is well structured and the walls of the micro-vessels are
resistant. One growth factor is particularly important in the formation of - a high quality micro-vascular network:
- the vascular endothelium growth factor.
- Dermo-aesthetic procedures and techniques and even aesthetic surgery can cause redness and in order for
- the skin to be in excellent condition, it is important to use cosmetic products that limit visible redness.
Hydration and nutrition
Skin hydration is a cornerstone for the right balance and good condition of the skin.
Proper hydration is the key to the optimal function of skin cells and the proper organisation of different
compartments of the skin. It allows it to correctly fulfil its protective and heat regulation functions.
Dehydrated skin is a breeding ground for numerous malfunctions, leading to sensations of discomfort,
increased sensitivity to daily aggression and premature skin ageing. To guarantee and maintain a good level of
hydration, the skin has developed different mechanisms including the skin surface, also called the stratum
corneum. This impermeable surface layer, organised into “bricks and mortar” (corneocyte cells within a lipid
matrix), limits the entry of exogenic agents and the loss of water from lower layers.
The intercorneocyte lipids, organised in a multi-lamellar way, trap water and form a labyrinth that slows its
ascent to the skin surface.
The NMF, made up of moisturising molecules within the corneocytes (mainly amino acids and their
derivatives), absorbs water in the atmosphere and retains free water from the deep layers of the skin, thanks
to its hygroscopic power.
Dermo-aesthetic procedures and techniques and even aesthetic surgery can cause skin dehydration and
dryness.
To immediately restore skin hydration and limit skin dryness, it is therefore important to provide, via the
cosmetic products used:
- humectants, such as glycerine, or small water-capturing molecules such as urea, which immediately
make the skin more supple by filling the Stratum corneum with water. - large hydrated molecules, such as high MW hyaluronic acid, which plays the dual role of an anti-
dehydration shield and a “cushion of water” on the surface. - plant oils or butters that nourish the skin and strengthen the intercellular cement.